A Simple Guide to Wearing Vintage Ties Today

 

Introduction

Vintage ties are gaining popularity. The modern market is stagnant and there is a distinct shortage of neckwear available to avoid being dressed with the same tie as someone else at that wedding you are attending. 

As small pieces of fabric that carry history, stories, style, and purpose, when chosen and worn with awareness, vintage ties feel just more intentional and relevant than the modern equivalent offering superior fabrics, colours, patterns and craftsmanship.

How Vintage Ties Fit Into Proportion

There is a greater range of varying proportions when it comes to vintage ties. Older ties for instance can be very wide or extremely narrow. It's therefore helpful to understand the relationship between tie width and jacket lapel width.

As a broad rule, most modern wardrobes feel comfortable, and look right, with ties between around 2.5-4 inches wide.

To establish which tie width to pair with your favourite jacket, look at the widest part of the lapel. The lapel is the folded flap of fabric on the front, extending from the collar down towards the buttons. A tie that roughly matches this in width will sit naturally, and is a good guide to follow. 

For an in-depth look into ties widths, check out our feature 'How To Date A Vintage Tie By Width'.

Working pattern into everyday outfits

Vintage ties are often more adventurous in terms of pattern than the modern day equivalent, bringing a wealth of possibility and originality to a suit, or outfit. Stripes, small repeating geometrics, paisleys and abstract patterns are commonplace, especially in pieces from the 1960s through the 1990s.

If your suit or jacket is plain, a patterned tie brings personality and finesse. When your jacket or shirt already has visible pattern, such as checks or bold stripes, it is often advised to let either the shirt or the tie be the quieter element of the outfit.

A simple rule is “two plains, one pattern”.

If jacket and trousers are plain, you can afford pattern in the tie, whereas if the suit has a visible check, keep the tie simple.

Designer Vintage Ties Offer Exceptional Value

This is where vintage ties come into their own.

Many of the most respected Italian houses we appreciate today, produced ties as a core part of their identity before the 21st century.

Brands such as Hermès, Gucci, Versace, Yves Saint Laurent, Salvatore Ferragamo, Valentino, Missoni and Ermenegildo Zegna invested heavily in silk quality, weaving, printing and hand-finishing.

When buying vintage, you are ensuring superior silk and interlining, more complex, carefully scaled patterns, and craftsmanship that would be extremely costly to replicate today.

The reality is that the retail price of a new designer tie reflects branding, marketing and overheads as much as materials. Vintage offers access to the same design language and construction, at a fraction of the original cost.

This makes vintage designer ties one of the strongest value propositions in menswear.

Caring for vintage ties

Because many vintage ties are made from delicate silks with soft interlinings, they require a touch of additional caring. It is strongly advised not to wash the fabric, not frequently press, or aggressively spot clean.

Instead, precautions can be taken. After wearing for instance, untie the knot fully, let the fabric gently relax, and hang the tie or roll loosely for storage.

Avoid getting ties wet and be cautious with food and drink; prevention is far easier than restoration. When stored sensibly and rotated, a good vintage tie can continue to serve for many more years.

Building a small, versatile rotation

For most wardrobes, a small rotation of well‑chosen vintage ties is more useful than a drawer full of rarely worn pieces. A plain dark tie, a striped tie, a small patterned tie and one or two seasonal colours will cover the majority of occasions. From there, collecting can become more specific, whether it's certain eras, particular designers, or unusual patterns that still fit within the way you dress.

If you’re looking to build or refine your own collection, you can explore our full selection of vintage designer ties, silk vintage ties, and Italian vintage ties at The Vintage Tie Shop.